Hemmer



G. BRAF.

. HEMMER. APPLICATION HLED MAR.23. I918- RENEWED FEB. 3,1921.

Patented Mar. 15, 1921.

Iwwmfor M UNITED srATEs 'PATENT OFFICE GERHARD DEAF, oi n'Ew' YORK, N. Y.

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Specification otLettei's'Patent.

Patented Mar. 15, 1921.

Application filed March 23, 1918, Serial No. 224,207; Renewed February 3, 1921. Serial No. 442,325.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GERHARD BRAF, a citizen of the United States, and resident of the borough of Manhattan, in the city and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in .Hemmers, of which the following is a specification.

The object of my invention is to provide a hemmer for sewing machines which will have novel features of construction, form and arrangement of parts whereby an elastic core may be inserted at the time of forming the hem and the hem moved laterally at predetermined intervals to cause the stitches-of the hem to pass through the elastic core to secure the core to the hem; means being provided for adjustably exertingtension on the elastic core as it passes through the hemmer so that the hem will be contracted lengthwise and thereby puckered when the stretched elastic core is released? and allowed to. return to its normal fcondition.

This renders the hem particularly well adapted for any purpose where an elastic hem might be used.

A practical embodiment of my invention is represented in the accompanying draw- Fig. Et -represents the same in front eleva-.

tion, and Fig. 3 represents hem with its elastic core.

The sewing machine table is designated lliy 1, the presser foot by 2 and the needle The fixed member of the hemmer com-v prises a base 45 having a rear extension plate 5 provided withlan arm 6 having an upturned-end 7.1:) This extension plate 5 is secured to the base 4: by pairs-of screws 8. A

a slotted bar 9 is pivoted to the extension .the shank; 15 of the mova "plate 5 by a screw 10. Spring washers 1 1 are provided for frictionally retaining the bar 9 in its diilerentadjusted positions with respect to the base 4.

Screws 12' pass through elongated slot 13 in the bar 9 to adjustably seciire the fixed member to the sewing machine. The base 4 has agroove-A4 hemmer fitted to slide .toiid fist the posia portion of a completed same and stitched. attach the elastic core to the hem, the hand .ithin which ember of the a:

tion of the movable member laterally with respect to the needle 3.

A hand lever is pivoted at 16 to the lug 17 of the base 4 and its inner arm 18 is engaged with a pin 19 uprising from the shank 15 of the movable member. The outer arm 20 of this lever is provided with a suitable handle 21.

A retracting spring 22 extends between the upturned end 7 of the arm 6 and a lug 23 on the inner arm 18 of the hand lever serving to hold both the movable member and the hand lever at the limits of their rearward movement. A bridge 24 is secured across the outer end of the groove 14, which bridge serves, together with the extension plate 5, to retain the shank 15 9f the movable member in the groove 14.

A keeper 25 has elongated slots 26 through which the screws 8 pass and by means of which the keeper is adjusted to limit the outward swinging movement of the hand lever.

The outer end of the shank 15 of the movable member is provided with a sheet metal plate bent and shaped to-form top and bottom guides 27 and 28 and a funnel 29 having an inner passage 30 for receiving the elastic core 31 and an outer passage 32 for receiving the material 33 and turning it over to form the hem around the elastic core.

Means are provided for placing the elastic core under tension to stretch it as it passes through. the hemmer, which means are shown, in the present instance, as comprising a movable pressure bar 34 hinged at 35 and provided with an end 36 arranged to cramp the elastic core between it and the wall of the inner passage 30.

An adjusting screw 37 turning through a lug 38 on the top guide 27, has its inner end engaged with the pressure bar 34 for moving the pressure bar to secure the desired amount of pressure on the elastic core.

In operation, the hemmer is adjusted with proper relationship to the needle 3 of the sewing machine and the material, together with the elastic core, is fed into the funnel 29. As the material and the core pass through the funnel, the core is stretched and the hem formed around the When it is desired to lever is moved to swing the movable member of the hemmer laterally thus bringing the stitches of the hem through the core. The desired amount of pressure on the clastie core to put it under the proper tension, can be adjusted.

It is evident that changes may be resorted to in the form, construction and arrangement of the several parts without departing from the spirit and scope ofJny invention; hence I do not intend to limit myself strictly to the structure herein shown and described, but 1O" What I claim is I 1. A hemmer for sewing machines, in-

cluding amember shaped to receive an elastic core and to recelve and turn material to form a hem around the elastic core, means carried by the member for placing the clastic core under tension as it passes through the hemmer and means for moving the v member laterally to bring the stitches of the hem through the core at predetermined points in the hem without releasing the tension on the elastic core.

2. A hemmer for sewing machines, in-

cluding a fixed member'for attachment to leasing the tension on the elastic core.

3. A hemmer for sewing machines, in-

cluding a member provided with a funnelelastic core and an outer passage for receiving and turning material to form a hem around the elastic core, and pressure means carried by the member coacting with the wall of the inner passage to place the elastic core under tension as it'passes through the hemmer.

4. A hemmer for sewing machines; including a sheet metal blank bent and shaped to form top and bottom guides for the material to be hemmed and to form a funnel having an inner passage for receiving an elastic core and an outer passage for receiving and turning material to form the hem around the elastic core, and, a pressure device carried by the top guide for placing the elastic core under tension as it passes through the hemmer.

5. A hemmer for sewing machines, in-;

cluding a fixed member for attachment to the sewing machine and a movable member having a lateral sliding movement in the fixed member and provided with a funnel having an inner passage for receiving an elastic core and an outer passage for receiv ing and turning. material to form a hem around the elastic core and means carried by the fixed member for movingthe movablc.member laterally to bring the stitches of the hem through the core at predetermined points in the hem.

In testimony that I claim'the foregoing as my invention, I have signed my name this 22nd day of March, 1918.

GERHARD BRAlf. 

